Daihatsu Copen UKDM 2009 L881K S13

Our second demonstrator is this Daihatsu Copen. We acquired it in 2021 with 54,000 miles on it. At the time, the exterior and underbody were in poor condition, but the mechanical aspects were decent. We immediately began the restomod process, using a combination of stock replacement parts and components from well-known tuners. Our goal is to transform it into a street car by following the invaluable advice of several Copen tuners in Japan. The project is ongoing.

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Under Body - Steam Clean

We were uncertain about the health of the original under panel because it was covered by thick, firm mud. After steam-cleaning, we found that the original under panel was in relatively good condition.

Under Body - Dinitrol Treatment

After the rust-conversion treatment, the under panel was coated with Dinitrol products, including cavity wax and waterproof sealer 4941. The side sill panels received a thicker application of these treatments compared to the middle areas, as they are more exposed to surface water.

Under Body - Restoring the Brace Bars

There are two large X-shaped brace bars and two short brace bars. These bars often accumulate significant rust. To restore them properly, it is essential to remove any dirt and old paint, apply a rust converter, and then repaint them.

D-SPORT Side Sill Support Bar

After completing the undersealing, the next step is to install the D-SPORT Side Sill Support Bar. This component significantly reduces unwanted movement of the chassis, which in turn minimizes noise from gaps in the body panels. As a result, you'll notice that the body feels more like a monocoque structure.

Under Body - Restoring the Oil Pan

A common issue with oil pans is that the smaller steel sections often become very rusty and may be corroded. It is advisable to fully repair and refurbish this smaller section, including all stud bolts and nuts.

D-SPORT Aluminum Floor Panel

The D-SPORT Aluminum Floor Panel protects the underside of the engine including the oil pan from exposure to stones and surface water. It also significantly enhances the extraction of hot air from the engine compartment.

Under Body - Restoring the Trailing Arm

The trailing arm and rear stabilizer bar were covered in old underbody sealer. To assess the level of rust and corrosion, the sealer was removed, and the paintwork was repaired. If the bushes deteriorate, the entire trailing arm must be replaced.

D-SPORT Rear Performance Bar

The D-SPORT Rear Performance Bar is mounted between the two attachment points of the trailing arm and the two connection points of the fuel tank hanger plate. This bar significantly enhances the rigidity of the rear chassis, preventing body twist from affecting the trailing arm.

Rigid Collar Front Kit

The Rigid Collar is the final component in our under-body improvement project. This well-known part is installed between the chassis frame and the front sub-frame, enhancing both the positioning and rigidity of the front end. This results in sharper and more accurate handling.

Rear Panel - Behind the Bumper

The area behind the rear bumper is often overlooked, yet it can accumulate significant dirt and rust. It is advisable to inspect this space, clean it thoroughly, apply rust converter, and then repaint it to prevent further deterioration.

Rear Panel - Bottom of the Bumper

The lower part of the rear bumper is highly vulnerable to damage from stones and surface water. This project presents a good opportunity to refurbish the rear bumper, particularly its lower section.

Rear Panel - Inside of the Boot Lid

The rear trunk lid was contaminated with an unidentified cavity wax treatment. As a result, we had to remove the wax and thoroughly clean the entire surface of the lid. This process also provided a valuable opportunity to learn how to properly install the rear boot lid with even alignment.

Rear Panel - Weather Strip

There are several sets of weather strips for the Copen. This time, we replaced the weather strip located between the rear window panel and the rear boot. The previous strip was installed unevenly and had become stiff, which may have led to rainwater intrusion.

Rear Panel - Rear Spoiler Removal

The rear spoiler was initially removed to replace it. However, the replacement plan was ultimately canceled. Instead, the spoiler was refurbished and reinstalled for a short period. It is beneficial to understand how it is installed for any future actions.

D-SPORT Rear Support Bar

The D-SPORT Rear Support Bar is one of the most popular braces offered by D-SPORT. It enhances the rigidity of the rear upper section, leading to a further reduction in squeaky noises produced by the body panels.

Front Panel - Cleaning under the Cowl

It may seem unusual to have such a large unused space within the Copen. When refurbishing the cowl and wipers, it's an excellent opportunity to clean the empty area underneath the cowl section.

Front Panel - The Cowl and Wipers

The wipers, the three black plastic components, and the cowl often become discolored over time. Since these parts are easily visible to anyone examining your vehicle at events or shows, it is advisable to refurbish them as soon as possible.

D-SPORT Front Strut Tower Bar

The D-SPORT Front Strut Tower Bar Kit includes a battery and fuse box relocation kit, as well as hydraulic bonnet tubes. Installation requires the removal of the fender panels, making it a great opportunity to install the bar while working on the fenders. The strut tower bar enhances upper front rigidity, resulting in improved handling.

Front Panel - inside the Fenders

The front fender panels are easy to remove. This area is often contaminated with dirt and underbody sealer. Since it's aluminum, just clean them instead of sealing them. Keep them clean.

Front Panel - Fender Arch

The front fender panels can be easily removed for cleaning and re-treating the front fender arches. Several small rust spots have been treated with a rust converter, repaired, and repainted as needed. The arch areas were steam cleaned and resealed with Dinitrol.

Front Panel - Front Core Beam

The front core beam is located behind the front bumper. It’s important to address this area when removing the radiator support. Be sure to clean it thoroughly, apply a rust converter, repaint it, and seal it with a transparent sealer.

Front Panel - Radiator Support

The Copen utilizes a radiator support that is mounted at the front of the chassis for the installation of the radiator and air conditioning condenser. This support is made from reinforced plastic material, so it is important to wash, clean, and treat it with a plastic protection product.

Front Panel - Low Sound Horns

We have relocated the horns and replaced them with low-sound versions. The wire harnesses were extended from their original lengths to reach the new locations. Additionally, the red horns provide a more visually appealing look.

Badge Deletion - Rear

We noticed a dirt mark around the rear badge, which we didn't like. To address this, we removed the badge and polished the surface. We then refurbished the badges using new 3M VHB double-sided tape, allowing for quick reattachment in future.

Badge Deletion - Front

We understand that DAIHATSU has withdrawn from Europe, but many people are still curious about this vehicle. It might be helpful to inform them that it’s a Copen. However, we prefer it without the badge.

Exhaust - Pipe Refurbishment

The original pipe and silencer were covered in rust; however, no corroded areas had formed holes or cracks. The entire exhaust system was sanded to remove the rust, then polished, and finally protected with a transparent VHT clear paint coat.

Exhaust - Silicone Hangers

The original rubber hangers deteriorated, causing the exhaust to hang lower than its original position. The silicone hanger is stronger and holds the pipe securely in place, and it also looks nicer from the rear view.

Exhaust - Gasket and Fasteners

The original springs, gasket, and fasteners were worn out, so we needed to replace them. Whenever possible, using stainless fasteners helps to avoid corrosion. The O2 sensor was checked and tested fine, so we decided to keep it for now.

Exhaust - Manifold and Heat Shield

The exhaust manifold was covered in rust, and its fasteners were corroded and had become headless. The manifold was treated with a rust converter and then painted with VHT paint. The heat shield was also painted with VHT. Additionally, the manifold gasket was replaced with a brand-new one, and stainless steel bolts were installed.

Cooling System - Coolant Flush

The original coolant was severely contaminated, and its color was nearly unrecognizable. A coolant flush agent was used to clean the cooling system, followed by two water flushes, resulting in a clean state. If you notice contamination in the reservoir, it's time to perform a flush.

Cooling System - Thermostat

The original thermostat was tested in hot water and was found to be too slow to start opening. To prevent the engine from overheating, it should be replaced once it shows signs of deterioration. For now, we use a brand-new stock thermostat.

Cooling System - Radiator Hoses

Since this Copen has a K3VE 1.3 engine, there are no aftermarket silicone hoses available from Japan. Therefore, we cleaned and applied a rubber protection agent for now.

Lubrication - Engine Oil Flush

The engine oil was severely contaminated and had become thick. We promptly performed an engine oil flush using a flushing agent. After running the engine for 200 miles, we drained the old oil and circulated the draining oil twice. There are now no signs of contamination.

Lubrication - MTF Change

The manual transmission fluid was replaced with new oil. The old fluid showed no signs of gear debris, but it was slightly contaminated. It's a good practice to check the fluid after the vehicle reaches a certain mileage.

Footwork - Brake Caliper Rebuild

The front brake calipers were extremely dirty, and the braking felt unreliable despite the brake pads having sufficient thickness. Therefore, the calipers were disassembled for a complete overhaul. They were cleaned, rust-converted, and then painted with VHT in matte black.

Footwork - Hub Bearing and Knuckle

There was an unidentified rotating noise coming from somewhere in the vehicle. The first component to investigate was the hub bearings. The front bearings were replaced, and the knuckle, hubs, and splash guards were refurbished, so everything should be fine there. Next, we moved on to check the rear hub (drum) bearings for any further issues.

Footwork - Rear Drum Bearings

There was still an unidentified rotating noise coming from somewhere, so the next component to investigate was the rear drum bearings. The rear bearings were replaced, and the drum covers and drum plates were refurbished. After these repairs, the noises completely disappeared, indicating that the rear bearings were likely the source of the problem.

Footwork - Rear Brake Pipe and Cylinder

The brake pipes were found to be broken due to rust and corrosion. We sourced the correct materials to replace these parts. The rear brake cylinders were also replaced, as it was convenient to do so while the drums were open. The union nuts for the brake hoses were extremely seized, preventing us from rotating them. This will be our next project.

Footwork - Front Stabiliser Bushes

The front stabiliser is connected to the sub-frame using two rubber bushes, and there are four reinforced rubber bushes between the stabiliser bar and the lower arms. The original rubber bushes were severely worn and flattened, so we replaced all of them with genuine stock parts. This replacement significantly improved the handling of the vehicle.

Footwork - Suspension Bushes

To enhance the driving experience, particularly in terms of sharpness and comfort, it is essential to replace all the suspension rubber bushes and coil spring seats. The rear coil springs are positioned between two rubber seats, which had become severely worn and flattened. Additionally, the bushes in the front lower arms were also deteriorated, leading to the decision to replace the entire arms.

Engine - Valve Clearance Adjustment

The valve clearance adjustment is a critical maintenance task that should be performed periodically. However, we are concerned that not all Copens may have been checked and adjusted since Daihatsu ceased operations. We conducted the necessary adjustments and discovered that the clearance was slightly looser than the average figure but still within the acceptable service limit.

Engine - Rocker Head Cover

When the rocker head cover was removed, it was time to refurbish it using VHT red wrinkle paint. The head gaskets were also replaced. This work enhanced the appearance of the engine bay, which spectators at events and shows enjoy examining and discussing.

Engine - Spark Plugs

Reading the spark plugs is one of the most effective ways to assess the condition of the engine. They were not too bad neither too oily nor overly rich though they did appear lean. The electrode gaps were within the service limits, but the plugs were replaced with a new set of NGK.

Engine - Air Filter

The original air filter, airbox, and rubber hoses were replaced with an angled K&N filter, an angled aluminum pipe, and an angled silicone hose. The surface area of the new air filter is approximately 1.1 times larger than that of the original. The diameter of the hoses remains unchanged. This modification enhances both the sound and the response of the engine.

Cosmetic - D-SPORT Air Plate

The D-SPORT aluminium radiator air plate enhances airflow from the front grille to the AC condenser and radiator.

Cosmetic - D-SPORT Tow Bar

The D-SPORT Tow Bar is designed to attach to the existing tow hook located under the front bumper. This setup not only functions correctly but also enhances the vehicle's appearance. Please note that when the underfloor panel is installed, it will require modification.

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